“Roots of Rebirth”: When Fashion Embraces Science and Technology
Roots of Rebirth is Iris van Herpen's Spring-Summer 2021 collection, a testament to her belief in the potential for a circular economy within the fashion industry. Van Herpen envisions a world where "everything is transformed," leaving no room for waste as all items are repaired, repurposed, or reused. The Dutch designer draws inspiration from nature's intricate intelligence after delving into Merlin Sheldrake's Entangled Life. In his book, the British biologist explores fungi from various perspectives, concluding that they form the backbone of nearly all living systems.
The Roots of Rebirth collection consists of 21 looks that mimic roots (hand embroidered pieces were wrapped around the models’ bodies for a rootlike effect) and fungal spores to portray fungi activity. As fungi covers the surface of the Earth, Iris van Herpen’s collection covers the models’ bodies. To craft these avant-garde pieces, Iris van Herpen used laser cutters and 3D printers to create fins and gills, along with the ‘henosis’ technique, a technique in which translucent layers of fabric were dyed in arrays of pastels hues to emulate the appearance of a mantodea, an insect species. In alignment with her sustainability focus, the collection also features upcycled fabric derived from recycled ocean plastic, a result of her collaboration with environmental organization, Parley for the Oceans. These innovative techniques enabled the haute couture designer to evoke the fluidity of ocean waves in the dresses and to give each piece the semblance of a mobile spore.
With this collection, Iris van Herpen sends a hopeful message: Despite the fashion industry's environmental toll, nature itself might hold the key to a more eco-friendly future for fashion.
